1/17/2024 0 Comments Bronze patina process watchuseek![]() ![]() Instead of LOS you may use an egg method or Sulfur Soap solution.Īnother method is an Ammonia fuming( you just need a container with the tight lid where you put some ammonia and then suspend your watch over it and then tightly close the lid),and this method is the best for the Brass.In about two hours or even less depending on the intensity of the color you desire you will get nice greenish patina, but for bronze it will take a much longer time.So basically,LOS is the best for Bronze and Ammonia(or some people using strong vinegar) fuming is best for Brass. ![]() And by the way,there are some companies which uses Aluminum of Phosphor Bronze which is a more yelolow/golden color from the beginning unlike "real" marine bronze with the higher copper content which has more reddish/coppery color.That aluminum bronze will produce more of purple grey black colored patina in LOS. Now that will work for brass also,but it might take very long time,in some instances over 24 hours and the color might be of greenish hues or grey. Now,from my personal experience Bronze will react very quick to the Liver of Sulfur (literally in a few minutes) giving a bronze nice layers of brown,black, reddish hues. Natural patina will take a loooooooong time,unless you live in the humid climate and air is salty from the seawater.For many of us who are "desk divers" it is not an option.So there is an induced patina. Patina is an oxidation,but unlike the rust it will not corrode the metal,instead only the top layer is oxidized protecting lower layers from further oxidation. They will both take patina but in a bit different way. Plenty of bronze surface area to appreciate there.Hello everyone! Just a few notes on patina from my personal experience.īronze and Brass are two different but similar alloys based on the Copper.One with an addition of Tin and the other with Zinc. Note that the Bronze Airman doesn't have this problem though, as the bezel of that is in bronze. Keep in mind the bezel of the Bronze Combat Sub is not bronze (edit - the bezel INSERT is not bronze), so on the wrist the only bronze surface area you really get to see when looking at the watch straight on are the lugs - which are, again, remarkably svelte.īasically I rate the Combat Sub's case design as one of its best features, but in a bronze watch it's greatest asset becomes almost a liability because there's not enough metal case to appreciate. For a bronze watch I wanted more surface area to appreciate the patination, to get that chunky old school diver look, etc. Now in a steel Combat Sub I'd say the watch's lean build is entirely a good thing, but it's more of a mixed blessing on a bronze watch IMO. It's 42mm but was the easiest to wear 42mm watch I owned (I have thinner wrists), I think it wears more like a 40 or even a 38. This also helps it wear quite comfortably on wrist. It's remarkably thin for a dive watch, has petite lugs, and overall cuts a very slim figure. If you own one, take it and hold it up against another dive watch you own. ![]() One of the best qualities of the Combat Sub line is how svelte the case is. However I must say I wasn't entirely satisfied with the piece. I owned a Glycine Bronze Combat Sub for a few months and it patinated *extremely* quickly, I believe due to the high copper content.
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